Open Call: Who wants to weave with metal?

With the open call that TextielLab has just launched, a new phase of the R&D weaving programme is starting. The lab is calling on experienced designers to submit proposals for projects on the computer-controlled jacquard machine with metal chain.

 

Much has already been written about the R&D programme on weaving, which started in 2021 and was crowned with a proud first last year: the first machine-made jacquard fabrics made from 100% metal. What began as research into weaving self-supporting structures with the designers at DRIFT gradually developed into a journey of discovery in the field of metal weaving. Using a manually knotted aluminium warp – first on the TC2 and then on the 170 cm wide Dornier jacquard weaving machine – a series of samples was created that appeals to the imagination. This marks the moment to involve more designers in the development process.

 

As open as possible

Ever thought about an outdoor curtain that catches and reflects the sunset? A fence with a woven pattern that seems to play with the wind? A fine-mesh metal sculpture that can be pressed into shape by hand? Or a woven metal façade? The R&D team is looking forward to receiving the dreams of designers, artists and architects at the start of this new research period. ‘We deliberately kept the open call as open as possible,’ says project manager Noortje van den Elzen. "We can provide the technology from the lab; we have succeeded in mastering aluminium on the machine. Now the question is what this is useful for. In terms of design, we want to steer as little as possible, also to rule out our own blind spots. I hope we receive applications for applications that we haven't thought of ourselves. That could be a research assignment, but also a product or application."

 

Brainstorms

After the summer, three projects will be selected based on criteria such as their innovative content and potential for further development in the future. But they must also be feasible within the available time frame: the winners will have around a month in the summer of 2026 to experiment with metal wire in the lab, together with the yarn expert, product developers and weavers. The exact type of metal has not yet been determined. Last year, the Dornier machine was used to work on an aluminium chain, but now another metal is being considered. This is one of the topics that was extensively brainstormed in the run-up to the open call with a group of designers who have made their mark in the field of giant curtains, semi-transparent partitions, 3D-woven shapes, and innovative use of materials. A number of designers participated in several sessions, from Petra Blaisse (Inside Outside) to Fransje Gimbrère and Milou Voorwinden.

 

Hard and soft

“One of the topics discussed during those sessions was the magic of the contrast between hard and soft,” says Van den Elzen. The samples on the table showed that the aluminium fabric beautifully reflects light and has a soft appearance. However, because aluminium broke on the machine when making dense fabrics, the number of weft threads was halved to ten threads per centimetre – and then it worked. This resulted in a beautiful, airy and supple fabric, but one that was less sturdy than hoped for. ‘In this new round, we would like to combine the sparkling aesthetics of a light material such as aluminium with the strength and weight of a heavier, more robust material such as stainless steel,’ says Van den Elzen. 

 

Melting and rolling

Another topic discussed at the brainstorming table was the finish. Van den Elzen: "Metal ends are like blades. You can't hem or lock them on a sewing machine. So are we going to melt them, fold them, or coat them? What's more, aluminium curls up when it comes off the machine, so you have to roll it to flatten it. And how can you colour it? These are all still open questions. We are therefore looking for knowledge partners who want to participate in this research, particularly with regard to the finish. We would like to collaborate with companies with different areas of expertise.”

 

Experience

One of the conditions for participating in the open call is a minimum of five years' work experience as a designer, artist or architect. ‘We deliberately choose creators with experience in complex processes; this is not a project for newly graduated designers,’ says Van den Elzen. ‘But we do want to give the latter the opportunity to work with the metal chain as well. I think it would be an interesting research topic for an internship or graduation project, for example.’ 

 

Who's in?

The deadline for submitting applications to participate in the open call is 29 August. ‘I am very curious to see where the applications will come from and what kind of ideas are out there,’ says Van den Elzen. ‘What is going on in the minds of designers now that weaving with metal is within reach? We are offering them the opportunity to do something truly unique together with a team of experts; it can't be done anywhere else. Who wants to join in?’

 

Would you like to weave with metal next summer? Submit a project proposal via our open call by 29 August at the latest.

 

Text by Willemijn de Jonge